As a young kid I lovede the ocean, and I simply couldn’t get enough of “ocean time”, so of course surfing and windsurfing came natural to me. I quickly developed a huge passion for traveling to distant shores, just to challenge “the motion of the ocean” in any way I could. The bigger waves, the more wind, the better I felt.
Then a traffic accident suddenly changed my life, and in a split second I wasn’t able to follow my passion anymore. It was a very dark period of my life and not a single day goes by, without thinking about the ocean life, I had to leave behind me.But then one day I bought a cheap camera, and of course I began to shoot the ocean and all the water sports I still love so much. Especially big wave surfing caught my attention and over the years I became good friends with some of the worlds top athletes within the big wave surf scene. This has given me a unique opportunity to shoot a lot of pictures of these extreme “watermen” and their very special lifestyle.
My fascination for big wave surfing grew even more as I began to realized how dangerous these top athletes are living their lifes, never knowing if they survive the next ride on some of the monster waves, they constantly chase around the globe, by following international weather forecasts every single day.
I have always been very fascinated by their surf boards, to me they are beautiful art pieces. So I began to shoot some of these unique board designs, just for the fun of it. They are made to resist some of the most powerful elements on the planet, and in a strange way they are loyal
Garrett McNamara makes history again by breaking the current record of the biggest wave ever surfed while
on location in Nazare, Portugal.
Through my passion for surf photography, I have had the pleasure of meeting some of the best big wave surfers in the world and I have also seen some of the biggest waves on the Planet. It’s a magnificent and scary experience to watch a person surfing down a 100 ft. wave. It’s all happening in a little fishing village called Nazare’ in the northern part of Portugal, here you will find one of the biggest and most dangerous waves in the world.
It was in Nazare’ I first meet Garrett McNamara and his amazing crew of big wave surfers. Over the yeas we have become good friends and it has given me a unique opportunity to get really close to these top athletes with my camera. They live in a “danger zone” every single day, with a huge risk of dying out there in these monster waves, so their lifestyles are very far away from a traditional 9 to 5 life.
I have always been very fascinated by their surf boards, to me they are beautiful art pieces. So out of pure passion, I began to shoot some of these unique board designs. They are made to resist some of the most powerful waves on the planet, and in a strange way they are loyal partners, the those who ride them through these extreme nature conditions.
One night several years ago while I was in Nazare’ to shoot a very powerfull winter storm, I had a strange dream about these surf boards. They had developed their own “Board spirits” generated by all the extreme ocean power, they are manoeuvring through. This dream stayed in my subconscious and over the years slowly developed into a creative process in Photo Shop which has resulted in a wide range of creations…one of them, is this one you are looking at.
Over the years these “Board Spirits” have received a lot of attention and this is my first exhibition here at Photographers Lab.
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